who likened the city to Venice as he approached it in a steamship on a visit in the 19th century. Indeed, Lisbon’s Praça do Comércio, a square that starts right at the seashore, at first glance does remind one of Venice. Its Arco Triunfal is the virtual gateway to the city. Immediately behind this arched portal, the ‘claustrophobic’ streets of the Baixa quarter, which seem to have been drawn with a ruler, end a few steps later on Rossio square... At Rossio, the best place for getting a sense of the city’s human traffic, ignore the sidewalk cafes that cater to tourists and step into one of the century-old ginjinha bars which are on the verge of extinction today. These stand-up beverage buffets where the only thing served is the excellent ‘ginjinha’, a cherry cordial, are one of the most authentic experiences you can have in Lisbon.
The dreamy gaze of the city’s residents immediately sets them apart from other Europeans. A throwback no doubt to the days when Portuguese navigators like Vasco da Gama set sail for the Spice Islands,