Where water and Istanbul are concerned, the 20th-century Turkish novelist Ahmet Hamdi Tanpýnar is your best companion. He tells of the postman who takes his annual leave and sets out to explore, beginning with his own neighbourhood, and declaring, 'In their daily lives everyone in Istanbul yearns for somewhere else.' Then Tanpýnar cannot resist adding, 'They chiselled Istanbul like a precious stone in the hands of a skilled gem cutter.' This description fits Istanbul perfectly. So who were those people who chiselled Istanbul like a precious stone? The 16th century architect Sinan, the miniature painter Matrakçi Nasuh, Sah Kulu of Baghdad, Mercan Usta, Veli Can, Nigârî, Seyh Hamdullah, Karahisari, Levni, Hafiz Post, Itrî, Neyzen Tevfik and many many more artists, architects, poets and musicians. Istanbul is concealed in details. In backstreets, in pots of geraniums, in Judas tree blossom, in mimosa and in magnolia flowers. And we should not forget the ancient plane trees. Then there are the details of the Bosphorus, which opens its arms to every shade of love.

It should not be exaggerated; narcissi bloom even on Istanbul's rubbish heaps the moment the scent of spring fills the air of the Bosphorus. The Bosphorus is constantly changing colour, sometimes crimson, sometimes dark blue with sparkling phosphorescence, sometimes silver, sometimes turquoise... whether you are alone or with a crowd, when you next visit the Covered Bazaar or the Egyptian Bazaar, take one of the Bosphorus ferries that depart from Eminönü. But on one condition; you must not let the unkempt state of the quay and the ferries disconcert you. The pigeons and gulls that resemble the narcissus on its rubbish heap follow the boat from the Imperial Gallery of Yeni Mosque on its outward journey along the Bosphorus. Find a window seat, and do not miss the waiter when he brings around his circular tray filled with glasses of glowing dark red tea. Savour its sharp flavour on your palate as you sip it. Can you hear the sound of the wash breaking against the stern? Or are you hard of hearing? But it doen’tn matter. If the sound does not reach you, then you can go nearer to the sound.

And a last note to readers from my log: Whatever the ferry's destination, whether winter or summer, buy a ticket and set out on a voyage down the Bosphorus. When you lay your head on the pillow that night, you will see such a dream, that even the heroes of fairytale will envy you!

* Gürol Sözen is a writer and painter