Egirdir is a town in southwest Turkey lying on the shore of a large lake surrounded by mountains. Travellers stop here on their way to Cappadocia, Antalya or Pamukkale to visit the ancient cities of Sagalassos, Pisidia or Adada, and the area also attracts many people who come for outdoor sports that include paragliding, trekking, swimming, caving, hunting and skiing at the nearby Davras. As you approach the town along the main road between Isparta and Beysehir, you first catch sight of the lake with its many small peninsulars stretching out into the blue waters. Two small islands in the lake, Yesil Ada (Nis Adasi) and Can Ada, were linked by a causeway to Kale Burnu headland about 30 years ago, so that the inhabitants would no longer be cut off from the mainland when ice made the use of boats impossible in winter.

Kale Burnu is where the old quarter of Egirdir is situated. The ancient castle here after which the headland takes its name was built by the Lydians, and only its inner walls are still standing today. In antiquity the town was named Krozos, probably after the famous Lydian king Croesus. The Persians, Alexander the Great, the kingdom of Pergamum, the Seleucids, Romans and Byzantines all ruled here by turn. In Byzantine times the town was called Prostanna. There are still traces of this early settlement on the lower slopes of Sivri Dag, the mountain also known as Egirdir Sivrisi which is depicted on ancient coins minted here.
Few historical buildings have survived in the town. The han or commercial exchange built by the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin Keykubad I in 1237 was later converted into a medrese or college by Hamidoglu Dündar Bey, and today its surviving ground storey contains shops. Facing it is Hizir Bey Mosque, whose great door is famous for its beautiful woodcarving.

They are then stored in refrigerated warehouses ready for export, which is why many people in Turkey have never tasted these delicious apples. Do not be surprised when you see children in Egirdir begging their mothers for apples rather than chocolate.
During September and October an unusual market known as Pinar Pazari is held every Sunday in Baglar. A road through apple orchards leads to the marketplace, which is shaded by ancient trees. The market has been held for centuries and was originally established by the Yörük nomads, who as autumn set in came down from the mountains to sell their produce. The last market day is reserved for women alone, and traditionally was an occasion when mothers of grown sons looked out for prospective daughters-in-law!

Where antiquities are concerned the King’s Road dating from the Lydian period is one of the most remarkable sights of the region. After crossing the Göksu River the road enters a gorge where there are ancient inscriptions addressed to travellers. The ruined city of Adada and the lakeside beach of golden sand close to the station are other sights that visitors should not miss when they come to Egirdir.

Evin Dogu is a photographer and freelance writer