Afyonkarahisar, more often known as Afyon for short, has been home to many civilisations, lying as it does at a strategic geographical junction at the centre of western Turkey. Whether you are travelling from east to west or north to south, by road or rail, you are almost certain to pass through this city. With a history that can be traced back to 3000 BC, Afyon was ruled in turn by the Hittites, Phrygians, Hellenes, Romans and Byzantines until its conquest by the Turks in 1200. With such a rich historic heritage, visitors to the city should start at the museum, which has an outstanding collection of Hittite, Phrygian, Roman and Byzantine works of art.
Upon leaving the museum it is time to explore the streets, which offer interesting sights at every turn, such as a pile of kepeneks, the colourful woollen capes worn by shepherds, which also serve as beds or tablecloths when necessary. If you are curious to see how they are made, all you have to do is enter the workshop with a greeting.

The old quarter of the town known as Kalealtý has many well preserved examples of old Turkish houses painted in diverse colours, and with doors and windows which are lovely examples of traditional woodwork.
After lunch you can climb up to Afyon Castle, perched high on the craggy hill of dark rock that towers over the city. The castle stands on the brink of an ancient volcanic crater, and the view from here is spectacular. You can still see traces of Hittite carving on the walls of the castle, which was used as a stronghold by the Hittite king Murshil II during his Arzava campaign around 1350 BC.
After descending the steep path from the castle, make your way to the city centre, where it seems that every other shop is selling either the famous garlic sausage of Afyon, or Turkish delight with the equally famous clotted cream and other sweetmeats. When I asked what was special about this cream, they explained that it was made from water buffalsne milk.

Early Christian communities fleeing Roman persecution took refuge here, as they did in Cappadocia far to the east, carving out homes in the soft volcanic rock. The rock tombs and church of Ayazini are the most important sights. The following day I visited the Göynüs Valley, popularly known as the Phrygian Valley. The Phrygians began to expand their territories in Anatolia from 1200 BC onwards. Their kingdom, whose capital was Gordion west of Ankara, covered the mountainous and forested region between Afyon, Kütahya and Eskisehir. In the Göynüs Valley are rock tombs and openair temples.