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The Akdaglar Mountains
2002 / December

The Akdaglar Mountains in the Western Toros range begin west of the town of Gömbe near Elmali and stretch as far as the village of Mamatlar near Korkuteli. From a distance they appear to be a single mass, but in fact there are several peaks, the highest being Uyluk Tepe at 3016 metres, followed by Yumrudag at 2760 metres and Göllü Tepe at 2713 metres.

Our team of nine climbers stopped at Gömbe, the last place we would be able to buy bread and anything else we had not already packed for the four-day expedition. The air was chilly, and we put on our weatherproof clothing. The minibus put us down at 1500 metres and we set out, following the course of the Uçansu River. As usual, I spent the first half hour cursing myself for coming. The comfort-loving side of me kept complaining that there was no need to come this far for the pleasure of freezing.

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The Akdaglar Mountains
2002 / December

But before long I was enjoying the snow, comparing the pristine white scenery favourably to the noisy chaos of the big city. Our first stop was to be the high meadow - yayla - of Subasi at 2325 metres. The light was already fading and we chose a camp site in a valley on the western side of the yayla, making sure that there was no risk of an avalanche. For supper that night we sufficed with soup made from snow water. The temperature had fallen to minus 15 degrees, and a storm was blowing up. Like a buoy tossed by the waves, our tents bent first to the right and then to the left, as the wind whistled uncanny melodies.

We awoke the next morning to heavy cloud and mist, and nobody objected to postponing the ascent until the following day. Three of us made a small reconnaissance trek to the south of the yayla. Although the cold was not quite 'moustache freezer' level, it was nevertheless very cold, blowing a gale and still misty.

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The Akdaglar Mountains
2002 / December
The Göllü and Uyluk summits were faintly visible, and both so close together that we could not work out which was which. The rest of the day passed in drinking tea and soup, and long conversations. We shared reminiscences of previous climbs, joked and speculated about what the weather would be like over the next few days. Visits were exchanged between tents.

The following day the sky was clear and when the sun lit up the peaks we packed food into our bags and set out for the southern end of the yayla. But the weather began playing us up again. Clouds gathered over the peaks and the air darkened as if a storm was about to break, and then suddenly the sun would be shining hopefully down on us again. Choosing which of the summits to climb was another problem, and we debated as we trudged along. One group favoured the west peak and another the eastern one, but finally we decided on Uyluk, the highest. We descended into the Kurucaçay Valley, and after a three-hour hike commenced climbing.
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The Akdaglar Mountains
2002 / December
By weaving an S shape we arrived at the summit without roping up. The mountainous landscape stretched out at our feet. However, our altimeters only showed 2760 metres, and when we looked westwards we saw a higher peak smiling down at us. Instead of Uyluk we were on Yumrudag, and we recognised the plateau behind us as Cem Alani. After so many hours of effort we had climbed the wrong mountain! However, we were obliged to leave Uyluk for another time, because the weather was still capricious, and no one was sufficiently disappointed to renew the attempt. Personally I admitted exhaustion.

We were in no hurry to make the descent, and drank in the vista at our leisure. Then, following in our own tracks and putting our weight on our heels we headed downwards. The weather broke again, and after a strenuous walk through the Kurucaçay Valley we slid down to the camping site on the edge of the Subasi Valle.
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The Akdaglar Mountains
2002 / December

We had turned the 50 metre slope between the yayla and the valley into a playground. That night I slept soundly and heard neither the tent shaking nor the wind moaning. In the morning we packed up and made our way downwards, leaving the Akdaglar Mountains behind.

* Utku Tonguç Topal is a photographer

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