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Pastry dishes from Trakya
2002 / November

The northeast corner of Turkey, known as Trakya, forms a land bridge between Europe and Asia, and this geographically strategic position is reflected in its rich cultural heritage, whether in foodways, folklore, folk dances or music. Throughout history people have migrated both eastwards and westwards through this region, carrying their own cultures to new lands, and the Trakya cuisine is a delectable example of the resulting acculturation, as illustrated by the wide range of delicious soups, vegetable dishes, meat dishes, sweet dishes and pastries. In modern times two major waves of migration have affected the cultural and social structure of Trakya today. The first of these was the arrival of Pomaks and Gacals from the Balkans following the Ottoman-Russian War of 1877-78, and the second the arrival of Gacals, Pomaks and Romanian Muslims from Thessalonica and other parts of Greece in 1923 and 1924 following the signing of the Lausanne Treaty.

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Pastry dishes from Trakya
2002 / November

In addition the 1930s saw migrants arrive from Bulgaria to settle in Trakya, making their own contribution to the cultural mosaic created by the numerous ethnic groups in the region. Although the rapid pace of modern life has affected the traditional cuisine to a certain extent, some dishes being dropped from the culinary repertoire of a younger generation that has less time to spend in the kitchen, many old favourites are still as popular as ever. Typical regional dishes include fried liver, liver stew, liver rissoles, leek soup, potato soup, poached eggs with yoghurt, broad bean pure, green bean stew, peppers with Lor cheese, keşkek (a porridge of boiled wheat, lamb and cinnamon), and a range of helvas, sweet pastries, and pelte (pudding of fruit juice thickened with starch). Trakya cuisine tends to be light, features an abundance of vegetable dishes, and uses easy-to-find ingredients and simple cooking techniques.

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Pastry dishes from Trakya
2002 / November
The cuisine is particularly noted for its baked, fried and boiled pastries and pastas in myriad varieties, with fillings including cheese, minced meat, spinach, chicken, potato, marrow, leeks and aubergines. A number of flour-based products are still made at home in summer for consumption during the winter, such as tarhana (a dough of flour, yogurt and various other ingredients which is dried, crumbled and used to make soup), erişte (ribbon pasta), couscous and dried yufka (thin pastry sheets). Towards the end of summer, neighbours get together in a different house every day, and while helping with the preparation of these winter provisions for each family enjoy socialising at the same time. It is unfortunately rare to find examples of typical regional dishes in local restaurants, so for those without friends from Trakya to offer them home cooking, the only way to taste this delicious cuisine is to try some of the recipe selection given here. We hope you enjoy both the making and the eating of these typical savoury pastry dishes from Trakya.
* Ümmühan Kazanç is a freelance writer.
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Pastry dishes from Trakya
2002 / November
MANTI
For the pastry: 1 kg flour 1 egg 1 tsp salt Other ingredients: 2 onions 1/2 cup oil 2 tbsp tomato paste 2 cups rice 1 cup bulgur 250 g minced meat 2 tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper 1 boiled chicken or duck Method: Finely chop the onions and fry in the oil. Add the tomato paste, rice, bulgur and minced meat and continued to stir until the minced meat colours. Add salt and black pepper, stir in 1 cup of water and set aside. Mix the flour, egg and salt into a fairly soft dough, adding water gradually as necessary. Divide the dough into onion sized pieces and roll out thinly (2 mm) one at a time. Cut the pastry into 3 cm squares and place half a teaspoonful of the stuffing into the centre of each. Grasping opposite corners, press together in the centre to form little bundle shaped packages and place in a greased baking tray. Bake the manti in a hot oven for approximately 15 minutes until coloured on top and underneath. Pour the stock from the boiled chicken or duck over the manti, and arrange pieces of the meat over. Replace in the oven for 10 minutes and serve hot.
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Pastry dishes from Trakya
2002 / November
PIRASA BÖREGI
Börek Stuffed with Leeks For the pastry: 1/2 kg flour 1 egg 1/4 cup vinegar 1/4 cup oil 1 tps salt For the filling: 6 large leeks 3 tomatoes 1 egg salt, black pepper, flaked red pepper
Method:
Finely chop the leeks and tomatoes. Add 1 egg, and 1 teaspoon each of salt, black pepper and flaked red pepper. Now prepare the pastry by mixing the flour, 1 egg, vinegar, oil and 1 teaspoon of salt with sufficient water to make a soft dough. Taking an onion sized piece roll out very thinly (1 mm) into a circle. Divide the circle in two, and placing a tablespoonful of the leek mixture across the centre of one semicircle of pastry, roll up lengthways like a cigar. Form this roll into a spiral. Arrange the spiral pastries in a greased baking tray, brush with a little oil and bake in a preheated medium oven.
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Pastry dishes from Trakya
2002 / November
KABAK BÖREGI
Börek with Baby Marrow For the pastry: 1/2 kg flour 1 egg 1/4 cup vinegar 1/4 cup oil For the filling: 1 baby marrow 2 onions 1 egg 1 tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper 1 tsp dried mint 1 tsp sugar
Method: Peel and grate the marrow, then squeeze to remove the juice. Finely chop and fry the onion, then add the grated marrow, egg, salt, black pepper, dried mint and sugar. Mix the flour, egg, vinegar, oil and salt to a soft dough, adding water gradually as necessary. Divide the dough into 12 pieces the size of tangerines and roll them out in very thin (1 mm) circles. Leave the rolled out pastry to rest for five minutes, and then spread in a large greased baking tray (60-70 cm in diameter), sprinkling a little oil between each layer, and spreading half the filling over the fourth and eighth circles of pastry. Cut into portions as desired and bake in a preheated medium oven for 30-40 minutes.
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Pastry dishes from Trakya
2002 / November
CIZLEME
Ingredients: 1/2 l milk 1/2 l water 2 eggs 2 tsp salt 1 small cube fresh yeast approx 6 cups flour
Method: Mix the milk, water, eggs, salt and yeast, then gradually add flour, beating well, until the mixture has the consistency of a thick pancake batter. Pour a ladleful of the mixture at a time into a hot nonstick frying pan or onto a griddle until the underside is coloured. Spread butter on top of the cooked cizleme and serve plain, with cheese, tomatoes, or sprinkled with sugar.
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Pastry dishes from Trakya
2002 / November

TATAR BÖREGI (ÇIG BÖREK)
For the pastry: 1/2 kg flour 1 small cube of fresh yeast 1 tsp salt For the filling: 1/2 kg minced meat 3 onions 1 tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper 1 tsp flaked red pepper 1 cup chopped parsley
Method: Mix the minced meat, chopped onion, chopped parsley, salt and black pepper together. Make a soft dough with the flour, yeast, salt and sufficient water. Divide the dough into pieces the size of tangerines. Roll these out into circles the size of tea plates and spread some of the minced meat mixture onto one half, leaving a margin around the edge. Fold over and press down the edges well. Cook in a hot nonstick pan or on a griddle. Spread butter on both sides and serve hot

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