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HIDDEN FROM THE SUN KIRKGOZLER CAVES
2001 / DECEMBER

When we think of summer holidays in Antalya, what first comes to mind is sun, sea, and the long sandy beaches along the coast between Kaş and Alanya. But the province of Antalya has many other less obvious attractions. Among these are the caves belonging to a karstic system which begins at Kırkgözler Springs 20 kilometres north of Antalya on the road to Burdur, and 8 kilometres north of the town of Döşemealtı, famous for its traditional carpets. The waters of the underground stream which surfaces at Kırkgözler Springs join with those of Pınarbaşı Spring to form a river, which after flowing for less than 2 kilometres disappears underground at the sink hole known as Bıyıklı Düdeni. This great underground river with a flow of 27,000 litres per second reappears at the swallow hole of Varsak, descends underground again, and finally emerges above ground for the last time at Düdenbaşı to form the Düden Falls.

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HIDDEN FROM THE SUN KIRKGOZLER CAVES
2001 / DECEMBER

The beautiful caves of Kırkgözler II and Suluin which form part of this system, and the crystal clear waters of the underground river attract many experienced divers, and recently a group of us decided to organise a diving expedition here.
Cave diving can be dangerous, and requires careful preparation and strict precautions. We began by gathering all the information we could about the Kırkgözler system, and after obtaining the necessary permits we packed our equipment and set out. After reaching Karain Cave, we asked the inhabitants of Çığlık village the way, and following their directions soon found ourselves at Kırkgözler II.

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HIDDEN FROM THE SUN KIRKGOZLER CAVES
2001 / DECEMBER

Lilies growing in the water just inside the cave were a beautiful sight, and we were tempted to dive here first, but decided to stick to our plan and start with Suluin Cave. So leaving the lilies behind we started searching for Suluin in the hilly terrain. After crossing a river whose water came up to our waists we arrived at Öküzini Cave, which we knew was close to our destination, but without anyone to ask the way we had to trust to luck and intuition. We climbed the next hill, and then several more without seeing any sign of the cave we sought. The weather was hot and we were feeling exhausted when at last we caught sight of the cave mouth. As we approached the air became delightfully cool, and cooler still as we descended towards the water. When we reached the bank we could at last see the cave mouth in all its magnificence.

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HIDDEN FROM THE SUN KIRKGOZLER CAVES
2001 / DECEMBER

Once inside we forgot all our tiredness and prepared for the dive. To avoid stirring up the mud on the bottom we decided to jump in from the height of a metre. Although the light was dim, visibility in the clear water was astonishing, making it possible to take photographs in an upward direction without the use of flash. There were small carp 15 centimetres long, which surprised us since no sunlight enters the cave, and we wondered what they fed on. In places beneath the water were logs and pieces of wood. At a depth of 15 metres we could still see everything above us with perfect clarity. A little below us I noticed a guide rope left there by a previous group of divers. I felt my body temperature begin to drop, and to control body heat loss I rose a little higher.

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HIDDEN FROM THE SUN KIRKGOZLER CAVES
2001 / DECEMBER

As I looked around for spots to photograph I noticed one of my companions gesturing excitedly to me, and swimming over I saw the most astonishing sight of my entire life: huge and spectacularly beautiful stalactites at a depth of 20 metres. For a long time we could not drag our eyes from the sight, which was well worth all the trouble we had taken to get there. The stalactites showed that the water level in the cave had once been much lower. After taking numerous pictures we signalled to one another that it was time to go.
Now we made our way back to Kırkgözler Cave, where we would make our second dive. Since the sun shines into the mouth of this cave, flora and fauna are abundant. At the mouth of the cave the water is filled with white water lilies (Nymphaea alba), and right by them close to the surface of the water I encountered a brightly coloured freshwater crab, whose scientific name I subsequently discovered to be Potaman fluviatilis.

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HIDDEN FROM THE SUN KIRKGOZLER CAVES
2001 / DECEMBER

Probably the crab was seeing a diver for the first time, but he was friendly nonetheless. Other inhabitants of the water are frogs, turtles and water snakes.
Our diving expedition to these two caves in the Kırkgözler karstic system was a wonderful experience. I shall never be able to forget the fascinating sights of this strange underground world hidden from the sun.

* Levent Konuk is a photographer




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