Artvin is Turkey’s northeasternmost province on the Black Sea coast, famous for its wild unspoilt scenery of green forested mountains, raging rivers, diverse flora and fauna, fascinating history, and colourful folk dances. The province is also known for its bullfighting, in which the losers usually get away without even a scratch.

Traditional bullfighting is held every year on the high pasture or yayla of Kafkasör, eight kilometres from the provincial capital of Artvin. The pasture lies at an altitude of 1560 metres, and commands beautiful views over spectacular forested scenery. The area is under conservation as a national park covering ten hectares, and is a popular excursion place for local people in summer.

Bullfighting is a local tradition which has its origins in animal husbandry.

In the past every family moved up to the rich mountain pastures with their herds and flocks every summer, and spent three and a half months in mountain huts on Kafkasör. Although lifestyles have changed, and fewer people make the move today, many families still continue the tradition.

In June farmers take their bulls and bullocks, between five and ten in number, up to the pasture and give them into the charge of drovers known as okuççi (literallly ox-man) in the local dialect. Being thrust into communal life with strange animals forces the male animals to submit to a strict hierarchy of status. Only when this hierarchy is settled are they able to coexist peacefully.All winter long the bullocks have lived in their byres feeding on maize and barley, but can now look forward to grazing on fresh rich green grass in the openair.Freedom to wander on the pasture at last is cause for exuberance,

but the way they strut around bellowing noisily at one another is not just an expression of joy at this newly gained liberty. It lies in the instinct each has to assert its itself over the others and become leader of the herd. Before the animals are given to the drover it is traditional to resolve this potentially dangerous ambition for leadership by conciliating the animals in preparation for communal life on the pastures. This process is carried out under the supervision to prevent the bulls from injuring or killing one another, which would mean serious financial losses for their owners. This centuries old tradition of organised bullfights still lives on in several of Artvin’s mountain villages, including a number in the district of Yusufeli and the village of Özmal in Murgul.Kafkasör was one of the pastures where this peace-making ceremony between the bulls traditionally took place. In 1963 Artvin Municipality stepped in to preserve this colourful custom from dying out with changing times, and in 1982 it became part of the Artvin Kafkasör Cultural and Arts Festival, held in the third week of June each year.

Although new activities have been included to draw visitors, the bullfights are still the star attraction. The bulls are grouped into six categories according to chest width, the categories being known as ‘deste’, ‘ayak’, ‘küçük orta’, ‘büyük orta’, ‘bas alti’ and ‘basboga’ (chief bull). Hundreds of bulls from villages all over Artvin arrive on the pasture a few days in advance, most being driven here in trucks. They spend this time in shelters in the shade of the forest trees, resting and becoming accustomed to their new environment under the watchful eye of their owners.

* Recep Güvelioglu, gazeteci.

That Sunday morning the bulls are led two by two into the arena, where the crowds are already gathered. Determined to get the better of their adversary and win the leadership of the herd, they aggressively advance on one another.

The tussle of horns is watched appreciatively by the crowds, who follow every move of their favourites with bated breath. The bouts are presided over by umpires who cancel the bout if a bull becomes over-agressive and there is likelihood of injury or blood is drawn. Normally, however, one of the bulls flees when his opponent gets the upper hand, and the umpire declares as winner the bull who stands his ground.

The climax of the event is the final bout for the title of basboga, or chief bull. When the winner is announced, a clamour of bagpipes, drums, zurna (a folk instrument similar to an oboe) and accordion rings out. The pasture echoes with shouts of joy. While the loser is left to his mournful meditations, the winning bull owner and his supporters join in a circle to dance in triumph.

The bulls which put on a good performance in the fights are often entered by the owners the following year to try their luck again.

Rearing bulls for the Kafkasör Festival becomes a passion with some farmers, and the most celebrated competitor of all time was the late Kâmil Alpaslan, proud winner of medals for the chief bull year after year. He used to travel around Artvin inspecting likely candidates, and then spare no expense in caring for and feeding the young bull which he purchased. Despite his advanced age, he would feed it himself, entrusting it to no one else in the family.
Although the bullfighting is the high spot of the Kafkasör Festival, a visit to Artvin has much more to offer besides. As well as enjoying this colourful custom of traditional pastoral life, the magnificent scenery and warmhearted people of this remote province will make your journey one to remember.

* Assistant Professor Dr Osman Aytekin is a lecturer in the Archaeology and Art History Department of Yüzüncü Yil University in Van.